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Leisure and sports - surfing
Publisher: Time:2020/1/4 Read:118frequency

Since the early 1970s, waves of waves on Hawaiian beaches have made it a mecca for surfing. Today, those who crowd to the beach and surf in the muddy waters share the sea with brave windsurfers.

Since the early 1970s, waves of waves on Hawaiian beaches have made it a mecca for surfing. Today, those who crowd to the beach and surf in the muddy waters share the sea with brave windsurfers.

Surfing has been going on in the Polynesian region for centuries. But it was only about 60 years ago that it became an entertainment pastime all over the world. Windsurfing is also a relatively new sport. It was founded in 1968 in California by Holly Schweizer and Jem Drake.

Today, surfing and windsurfing have become very popular water sports, and everyone from 8 to 80 years old loves them. Many countries also have related clubs, in which some basic skills are taught. For those with better skills, there are also regular tournaments and world championships, including the Olympic Games and the World Cup.

Chasing the waves

Surfing can be performed on any beach, as long as there are broken waves and waves rolling towards the coast. The size and shape of the waves depends mainly on the land they pass through. The best beaches for surfing are California, Hawaii, Peru, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa.

A surfer stands on a surfboard and rides the waves. The surfboard is made of lightweight foam plastic coated with resin and fiberglass. The ultimate goal of every surfer is to glide along the water wall in front of the waves when the waves are overhead. A skilled surfer can stand in the water channel for 10 seconds, and a novice is usually washed down by the waves under the gravity of the sea (rushing into the sea).

Initially, surfers paddled their surfboards into the sea, staying away from the breaking waves, and carefully watching the rolling waves (continuous waves). When they found a vigorous wave, they paddled the surfboard to the shore as quickly as possible. When the waves approach, their surfboards rise with the waves and begin to accelerate. When the first wave comes, the surfer jumps on the surfboard in a lying or kneeling position and maintains a balanced standing position.

An experienced surfer will undulate with the waves and move the center of gravity between the front and back of the surfboard to maintain balance. Surfing enthusiasts often travel around the world. They follow the tide changes everywhere and look for waves suitable for surfing. Waves at Waimea Bay in Hawaii sometimes reach 9 to 11 meters. On April 3, 1968 in Miro, Hawaii, a tsunami swept the coast with waves as high as 20 meters.

 
 

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